Around the World in Reality: East Africa

Africa is always on our list, but it takes a real effort to prioritize because of the distance and costly flights. So, we decided to make it a key part of my 40th birthday celebration. Donnell has wanted to do a gorilla trek for a few years, and I was eager to get back on safari. I thought, why not combine both into one trip? It ended up being even more incredible than we could have imagined.

Travel Day – Monday, June 23

Flying with Air France meant we could only check in at the airport, so we arrived extra early since that is not our usual travel day routine. Check-in was a breeze, and we made it through in record time. With time to spare, we relaxed in the Delta Sky Club, where I always appreciate the thoughtful touches at the entrance and the consistently outstanding staff.

We decided to treat ourselves by upgrading to business class, and it was well worth it for the comfort during our eight-hour flight. Dinner was striped bass, which was quite good.

Travel Day – Tuesday, June 24

After landing at CDG, we had a smooth transfer and spent some time in the Air France lounge before boarding our second flight, an eight-and-a-half-hour journey to Nairobi. Lunch featured salmon as the main dish.

Upon arrival, we met the driver our hotel arranged for us. The ride to the hotel was fascinating. We chatted about African American culture, and our driver taught us a few Swahili words, creating an interesting cultural exchange.

Pro tip: If you’re not taking advantage of your hotel’s concierge, you should. They’re often an incredible resource.

When we arrived at the Hyatt Place, we passed through security, as safety is taken seriously in Nairobi. We were warmly greeted at the door, given an express check-in, and escorted straight to our room. After a long day of travel, we took quick showers and called it a night.

Day 1 – Wednesday, June 25

HIGHLIGHTS: RocoMamas and The View

I woke up early and had breakfast at the hotel’s Zing Restaurant, which was included with our stay and offered a great variety of options. I chose to sit outside, ordered a cappuccino, and enjoyed the cool morning breeze. It was a stark contrast to the heat we had left in North Carolina.

We had planned to take a cooking class, but due to local demonstrations, our host had to cancel. I knew demonstrations were being planned, and I appreciated the thoughtfulness of our host in canceling in advance.

Pro tip: Stay informed about what is happening in your destination. I always sign up for the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program, STEP, which sends emails from U.S. embassies when events occur and serves as an official record that you are in another country. I also stay up-to-date with BBC, as I find their global coverage especially helpful.

With unexpected free time, we walked across the street to the Sarit Mall for lunch at RocoMamas, a smash burger spot. I had the Rockstar burger and a Tusker cider, a brand I remembered from Around the World in Quarantine: Kenya. Donnell chose the classic cheeseburger. Both were good, but I preferred the Rockstar burger. The caramelized onions were the star of the show.

We used the downtime to rest and follow the demonstrations on the news. That evening, we went to dinner at The View, a rotating restaurant with stunning panoramic views of Nairobi. We shared the Trident seafood platter, which included tuna, lobster, prawns, octopus, and calamari. I enjoyed the variety, but these were not Donnell’s favorite types of seafood. We ended the night with pavlova for dessert, which I absolutely loved.

Day 2 – Thursday, June 26

HIGHLIGHTS: Safari and Sarova Mara Camp

We started the day with breakfast before setting off on our journey to Maasai Mara. Along the way, we saw Maasai people dressed in red, herding cows and goats. Children played and waved from the roadside, and motorbikes were everywhere, often carrying multiple passengers.

After five hours on the road and an “African massage” from the bumpy ride, we arrived at Sarova Mara Lodge, an absolutely beautiful game camp with a very natural atmosphere.

We dropped off our bags and headed straight to the lunch buffet. The spread did not disappoint. It offered great options for us as pescatarians, which I always appreciate. It was exactly the fuel we needed before heading out on our first safari drive.

We then went on a three-hour afternoon drive. What I appreciated was that our driver was also our guide, so we stayed with him the entire time. Almost immediately, we spotted lions, something we had only seen from afar in South Africa. The highlight was watching a lioness with her cubs. We were so excited to see them up close. We also spotted giraffes, elephants, zebras, impalas, gazelles, ostriches, buffalo, a jackal, and a cheetah.

As our drive came to a close, we took a moment to appreciate the sunset. Sunsets while on safari have never disappointed me.

That evening, we attended a cultural welcome by the Maasai. It was amazing to watch how jumping was incorporated into their dance.

Later, we enjoyed dinner at the lodge. Highlights included Nile perch, Thai calamari, and truffle potatoes. Afterward, I had a great conversation with the chef over dessert, where she claimed her New York cheesecake could rival those in the States. I had my doubts, but it was certainly among the best I’ve had!

Day 3 – Friday, June 27

HIGHLIGHTS: Hot Air Balloon Safari

We had an early start at 5 AM for our Hot Air Balloon Safari. It was still dark as we made our way to the launch site. While waiting, we watched the sunrise, an absolutely beautiful sight that photos just can’t do justice.

Once the sun rose, we took off in one of the four hot air balloons launching together. It was our first time in a hot air balloon, so we were both a bit nervous at first. But once we were in the air, our nerves eased, and we savored the moment. We rose high and dipped low to get a closer look at the animals. It was such a unique vantage point and an unforgettable experience, especially seeing lions, giraffes, and other wildlife from the sky.

After landing, we enjoyed a champagne breakfast in the bush. It was the perfect way to end our hot air balloon safari experience.

While waiting for our main driver, the driver who picked us up that morning got word of a nearby lion. We quickly set off and found him with a fresh kill. It was my first time seeing a kill up close, making it a powerful circle of life moment.

The rest of the day was spent on safari with our main driver. Although the pace was slower, we had memorable sightings, including hippos and crocodiles in the river, a lion with two kills and a baby giraffe with its mother.

I truly hated for our safari to come to an end, but it actually worked out in our favor. Later that afternoon, the skies opened up and it poured rain. Everyone on an afternoon drive had to return early because of the heavy rain, so I was grateful we missed it.

Back at the tent, I was sitting on the front porch when I heard something trying to open a door. At first, I thought it was our neighbors, but it turned out to be baboons attempting to get into a neighboring tent. I was startled at first, but then I grabbed my camera as baboons started coming by our tent about every five minutes. It was fascinating to watch, especially the babies.

That night, I had a dawa, a familiar cocktail from Around the World in Quarantine: Kenya. It was MUCH better than the one I made.

Dinner was a standout. The day before, I mentioned in conversation that my husband loved salmon. The chef promised a surprise for him the next day, and she delivered by bringing out salmon after we settled in. It was some of the best salmon we’ve ever had, and we eat a lot of salmon. The service here was simply second to none.

Day 4 – Saturday, June 28

HIGHLIGHTS: Masaai Village Visit and The Garden Grille & Bar

For breakfast, we enjoyed a great spread. One of the highlights was the iced tea dawa, which was delicious. We also packed some snacks to take with us for the long drive back to Nairobi.

After breakfast, we visited a Maasai village. We were welcomed with a traditional dance, toured their homes, and spoke with the chief. We learned about their way of life and appreciated the chance to connect and ask questions to deepen our understanding of the Maasai culture.

We had lunch at the Buffalo Maasai gift shop. Although it took a while, our food finally arrived. My fish was good, but Donnell’s was undercooked.

On our drive back, we enjoyed views of the Great Rift Valley. The traffic was extremely busy, and what stood out even more was the driving. There were a few moments when I wasn’t sure we were going to make it, but I reminded myself that they do this every day.

After about five hours, we settled into the Hilton Garden Inn near the airport. It was one of the nicest Hilton Garden Inns I have stayed at, with beautiful decor and great food and beverages.

Once in our room, we decided it was time to do laundry. If you know me, you know I always find a way to wash clothes on a trip.

Pro tip: If you want to pack less, one way is to write down everything you plan to wear. Another is to stay at a hotel or Airbnb with a washing machine, or near a laundromat if you’re looking for cost-effective options.

After laundry and some rest, we went downstairs to the bar and had fried prawns and fries at The Garden Grille & Bar. The food was delicious, and I wasn’t expecting that. I paired it with a great glass of Pinot Noir.

Day 5 – Sunday, June 29

HIGHLIGHTS: Pride Lounge, Kigali Genocide Memorial and Fusion Restaurant

We caught our 7:30 AM flight, and the hotel packed breakfast to go for us. After spending some time in the Aspire Lounge, we made our way to the gate where we learned our flight was delayed. Luckily, we also had access to the Kenya Airways Pride Lounge. The lounge was beautifully decorated and offered great food options, even though we had already eaten. I enjoyed a cappuccino but noticed others ordering a different coffee drink called a Swahili macchiato. I will definitely have to try it next time I’m there.

After our delay, we had a quick flight to Kigali. We landed and were first in line at immigration, where we picked up our East Africa Tourist Visa. After a bit of searching, we found our driver and checked into the Heaven Boutique Hotel. Lunch was next door at the Heaven Restaurant. I had fish cakes, which were okay, but I also had a hibiscus honey frozen juice that was refreshing. Donnell enjoyed fish tacos.

Later, we visited the Kigali Genocide Memorial. I must admit that I didn’t know much about the genocide before the visit. I think that’s because I was in fourth grade when it happened, and my only reference was the movie Hotel Rwanda. To say the experience was emotional and heavy is an understatement. Still, I felt privileged to have the opportunity to learn and pay my respects to those who were tragically murdered.

That evening, we visited the hotel featured in Hotel Rwanda, which was near our own hotel. One thing to note about Rwanda is that it is known as the Land of a Thousand Hills, and this certainly applies to the city. We saw this as a chance to get our legs warmed up for the adventures ahead in the coming days.

After getting some steps in, we sat down for a drink at the bar. We didn’t realize we were in for a treat, as we ended up spending two hours chatting with an incredible mixologist. It was such a great conversation. We also tried fried sardines, which Donnell still talks about.

For dinner, we went next door to Fusion Restaurant and sat poolside. I loved the vibe, and the weather was perfect. I had fish stew, and Donnell enjoyed prawn risotto. Both meals were excellent.

Day 6 – Monday, June 30

HIGHLIGHTS: Gorilla Leisure Lodge

After breakfast, we began the nearly four-hour drive to Bwindi. The first two hours were tense because of winding roads and heavy traffic, but there were some highlights: seeing babies tied to their mothers’ backs and oversized items being transported on motorbikes.

We crossed the border on foot, going through both Rwandan and Ugandan immigration. This was a unique experience for us since we had never done a land border crossing before.

We checked in at Gorilla Leisure Lodge, a peaceful retreat. Upon arrival, we were given towels to wash our hands and offered a hand massage, which I gladly accepted.

We dropped our bags and headed back to the main lodge for lunch. We both had the pasta primavera, and it exceeded my expectations. I didn’t expect it to be so tasty.

After lunch, we returned to our room where we could fully appreciate its spaciousness and layout. We absolutely loved the mountain view from the balcony, and I spent most of the afternoon relaxing in the hanging chair.

At dinner, we enjoyed a three-course meal that included eggplant with cheese, ginger pumpkin soup, and pan-seared fish. Everything was delicious, but dessert was underwhelming. To add a good laugh, we realized afterward that the decor on the plate was actually soy sauce, which we had eaten.

Day 7 – Tuesday, July 1

HIGHLIGHTS: Gorilla Trek

Breakfast was hearty as we both had avocado toast. Mine was topped with boiled eggs, and his had baked beans. I think the first time I ever had baked beans for breakfast was in the UK. I must say, I tasted Donnell’s, and they were on point.

The moment we had both been waiting for finally arrived. We started with a short drive to the park station. After a briefing and a performance by the Batwa people, we met our guide and support team. We learned that our gorilla family was the Busingye group, which means peace.

We rode for thirty minutes to the starting point. There, we received walking sticks, met our porter, and got additional instructions. Our trek lasted about an hour, during which we walked through stinging nettles, carefully balanced to cross a stream, and tried to keep the group together.

At one point, we split from our porter as the gorilla family had been spotted. Our first encounter was brief, but what I love about gorilla trekking is that you keep moving with the family. Soon, we came upon a silverback and playful infants. It was absolutely amazing and a little scary at the same time.

After settling in, a young gorilla caught my eye. He was trying to play with the others, but since he was much smaller, he started making his own fun. He was so fun to watch. I didn’t know his name, so I started calling him Moyo. We even saw him beating his chest a couple of times.

After that, we found more gorillas. I’m still not sure if this was the same family or a different one, since there is typically only one silverback per family. Nonetheless, it was a special treat. One of my favorite moments was watching a mother with her four-month-old baby. The baby was so small yet already very aware. We were in awe, and the hour flew by.

We made our way out of the forest and took a break for lunch. Lunch included a delicious veggie wrap, mango juice, fruit, and a Snickers bar. It was exactly the energy boost we needed, as the hike out was uphill and challenging. Even so, it was worth every step, and I would definitely do it again.

When we arrived back, we were greeted with buckets of water to clean our dirty shoes and gaiters. It was a nice touch that we appreciated. Afterward, we took hot showers and rested before dinner.

Dinner that night featured wild mushroom toasties, tomato basil soup, aloo chole with rice and puri, and Banoffee pie. Everything was delicious.

Day 8 – Wednesday, July 2

HIGHLIGHTS: Batwa Village Visit and Kimironko Market

We had an early breakfast and visited a Batwa village on our way out. We saw how women weave baskets, children attending school, and the traditional dances of the Batwa people. We also learned about how they lived before being removed from the Bwindi Forest. Similar to our Maasai experience, it was very insightful.

On our way in, a beautiful lake caught our eye. On the way back, we learned it was Lake Muhele. It’s definitely a view I would love to see again on a future visit.

We stopped for lunch at Migano. I had a tuna sandwich and beetroot ginger juice. Donnell had the fish and chips.

We made it back to Kigali and stopped at the Kimironko Market. It was one of the wildest experiences I’ve ever had. From the moment we pulled up to park until we closed the car door to leave, everyone was hustling to get our business. Donnell felt overstimulated, while I loved the bartering.

We arrived at the airport and spent some time in the lounge before our short flight to Nairobi. That night, we stayed again at the Hilton Garden Inn.

Day 9 – Thursday, July 3

HIGHLIGHTS: Fairview Coffee Estate

After sleeping in, we grabbed breakfast and later had a light lunch at the hotel bar. I had prawns again. They were good but not quite as good as the first time. Donnell enjoyed vegetable samosas. We also tried some sodas. I had Krest, which was a bitter lemon flavor and quite unique. Donnell tried Stoney, which was similar to ginger beer.

We then visited the Fairview Coffee Estate. The two-hour tour was amazing. We learned about arabica coffee, its growing process, and the estate’s rich history dating back to 1909. It was also fascinating to learn that this is a single-origin facility, where the coffee is grown, harvested, and processed all on-site.

After learning about the estate, we had the chance to purchase coffee, which I definitely wasn’t going to pass up. I like to bring coffee back for both myself and my grandparents so they can taste flavors from around the world. We finished the visit with a cup of coffee and a cookie. It was such a great experience.

Back at the hotel, we caught our ride to the airport. We enjoyed dinner in the Kenya Airways Pride Lounge before boarding our flight to Paris. It seemed fitting to watch Mufasa, since I hadn’t seen it yet.

Travel Day – Friday, July 4

HIGHLIGHTS: Ladurée

After breakfast on the plane, we arrived in Paris. We had a 6.5-hour layover, and I considered a quick trip into the city but ultimately decided not to change our plans. Instead, we relaxed in the Air France Lounge.

Before boarding our flight home, I made a quick stop at Ladurée for macarons. It was busy, but always worth it.

This leg of the flight was the only one spent in premium economy instead of business class, and it worked out just fine to get us home.

Final Thoughts

This trip was nothing short of amazing. I can’t pick just one favorite because I loved the hot air balloon safari, encountering the lion with the fresh kill, and the gorilla trek. When it comes to food, both Fusion Restaurant and the meals at Sarova Mara Camp tie for number one. Overall, it was truly the trip of a lifetime.

That said, I would be remiss not to acknowledge that while we enjoyed our travels, several lives were lost during demonstrations in Nairobi and across Kenya. It is an important reminder that while travelers can often curate their experiences, there are people who live in these places and conditions every day without that privilege. May we never take for granted the opportunities we’ve been afforded, and may we strive to make a positive impact wherever we go.