Around the World in Reality: Santiago, Chile
I know. I know. I said we were only visiting five new countries this year, but I got the itch for a warm vacation during the holidays. My research led me to South America, and while it wasn’t previously on my radar, I narrowed down to Chile. With mountains, ocean, wine country, food, culture and summer, what else could we need? Chile had it all and didn’t disappoint.
Our travels began on Christmas day. We boarded our first plane to Atlanta and were upgraded to first class. Thanks, Delta! We landed and spent the layover in the Sky Club. It was overflowing with travelers trying to get to their destination. Though empty seats were sparse, the Southern Christmas menu was amazing. So amazing they had trouble keeping up with the demand! They did a great job adding more holiday cheer with a cookie decorating station and a holiday cocktail station. It was a nice treat to pass the time. After a couple of hours, we were off to board our second and final flight to Chile.
Day 1 – Monday, December 26
HIGHLIGHTS: Restaurant 8 and Empanada Making Class
Our flight landed around 9 AM on Monday morning. We quickly made our way through immigration and headed to the bus station. Santiago has a strong public transit system, so we decided to try it out. We caught a Centroaeropuerto bus for less than $2 per person to Los Hereos where we purchased a bip! Card to utilize the metro and city buses. For the week, we spent about $15 in total. We caught the metro and walked a couple of blocks to our hotel, Hotel Cumbres Lastarria.
When we arrived, it was around 10 AM, so I knew we were very early. Luckily, the kind gentleman had a room available and let us check in early. Grateful was an understatement! We headed up to check out our accommodations for the week and catch our breath. It was finally time to get acquainted with Santiago!
By the time we showered and took a breather, it was lunchtime. We walked around the corner to Holy Moly, a burger spot that had great reviews, but it was unexpectedly closed. We headed back to the hotel to regroup and learned the hotel’s restaurant had a lunch menu. Out of convenience and hunger, we decided to try it out.
*Pause* While recapping our travels, I always share how delicious the food is. And while it is delicious, I’ve decided to try a different rating scale to add a bit of dimension. Inspired by Keith Lee on TikTok, we’re going to start rating our meals 1-10 as opposed to sharing how good everything is or isn’t. Here’s our scale. 1-3 Awful, 4-6 Okay, 7-9 Good, and 10 is Perfect. So, here goes.
For the first course, we both ordered an appetizer that consisted of tomatoes, ricotta, basil and a red berry drizzle. The dish was simple and fresh, but it needed more ricotta and red berry drizzle. Donnell rated it a 6, and I rated it a 7. It was good, but it wasn’t great. For the second course, I had the fettucini with seafood and curry which I also rated as a 7. I enjoyed this dish, but it was a bit fishy to me. Donnell had the mote with eggplant and yellow peppers which he rated as a 6. For dessert, I ordered the chocolate trunk which had a chocolate mousse center, and Donnell ordered the lemon custard dessert. He did not like his dessert, so I ate them both. The chocolate dessert was a 7.5. I’m not a huge fan of mousse, but this was pretty good with good flavor. The lemon custard was a 7 for me. It had a bit of a unique flavor but the temperature caught me off guard. All in all, we were satisfied but not mindblown.
Later that evening, we headed to our first activity, an empanada-making class. Since our amazing paella class in Madrid, cooking classes will be at the top of our activities list! We arrived early, so we headed to the nearby grocery store for some wine to enjoy with our empanadas. There were so many options that it took me a good 15 minutes to make a decision. Ultimately, I landed on the Carmenere which was a great choice.
Our class took place in our instructor’s home. It was small and intimate. We had the pleasure of taking this class with another couple from Canada. We began the class by making the filling for the empanadas. Our filling included a lot of onions, eggplant, raisins, seasoning and water. While that cooked, we worked with the dough, and this was some WORK. Valentina was patient with us and guided us every step of the way. Then, we created our empanadas by adding a slice of egg, and olive with a pit and covering it with our eggplant filling. Valentina showed us numerous ways to close the empanada which is typically done to denote what type of empanada it is. We made so many empanadas! While they were in the oven, we made pebre, a condiment with cilantro, onion, tomato, green pepper and salt. It’s similar to pico de gallo but it tastes a bit different. It was absolutely delicious. I could’ve eaten it all before our empanadas were ready. Finally, everything was ready, and we enjoyed our empanadas, pebre and wine. We had a great time talking to our classmates and Valentina about travel and life in the US, Canada and Chile. We were there so long we ended up having to take an Uber back because the metro service was finished for the day. Nonetheless, it was a great way to end our first day in Santiago.
Day 2 – Tuesday, December 27
HIGHLIGHTS: Cerro Santa Lucía, Viña Cousiño Macul Winery, and Le Bistrot de Gaetan
We caught up on our sleep and enjoyed a slow start on Tuesday morning. Breakfast was complimentary at the hotel, so we made sure to take advantage of that. We wanted to explore a bit, so we headed around the corner to Cerro Santa Lucia. It was a little bit of a climb to get to the top, but it was certainly worth the panoramic views of the city. As a note, wear appropriate shoes when visiting.
Next, we caught a bus to Vina Cousina Macul, the 3rd oldest winery in Chile. Upon arrival, we were greeted with a welcome glass of Sauvignon Gris. The weather was beautiful, so we sat outside and finished our empanadas while we waited.
Our tour began on the grounds where we enjoyed our first official pour, a glass of rose. It was a very light and crisp rose. Like the Sauvignon Gris, it was perfect for a sunny summer day in Chile. Our tour guide shared how the process begins, and unfortunately, we were a bit early for the harvest as it begins in February. A fun fact about this winery is they harvest by hand!
We headed inside where we had our second pour, a glass of merlot. I’m typically not a merlot fan, but this was very good. I really enjoyed it. Here we were able to see the original barrels where the wine was stored to ferment. We then made our way to the new stainless steel vessels and learn more about the modern process that is currently used.
Finally, we had our last official pour, a glass of Cabernet. Cab is actually what Chile wine regions are most known for. We headed downstairs, and were able to see the cellars where the wine was stored. We even were able to see wine stored from 1927. I think we can all agree that bottle of wine would not be tasty.
At the end of the tour, we were surprised with a glass of Riesling. A perfect way to end the tour! Overall, it was a wonderful experience and a great way to spend an afternoon.
We caught the bus back to the city and headed to dinner at Le Bistrot de Gaetan. We were two days in and I hadn’t had a pisco sour, so it was a must. For dinner, Donnell had southern hake fillet in a creamy sauce with veggies. He really enjoyed his meal and rated it as an 8.5. Keep in mind, Donnell is a tough critic. I had the tuna medallion with hollandaise sauce and truffle potatoes. It was absolutely delicious. The tuna was cooked perfectly. The sauce was the perfect complement and the truffle potatoes were divine. It was a 10 on my scale. To finish dinner, we enjoyed an apple tarte tatin with vanilla ice cream. We forgot to rate this, but I do remember us enjoying it.
Day 3 – Wednesday, December 28
HIGHLIGHTS: Holy Moly, Mo and Hot Springs and Cajon del Maipo Tour
Wednesday was set to be an early morning, but our tour time was changed to the afternoon, so were able to grab breakfast and have another late start.
To pass the time, we decided to check out the area nearby where artisans were selling their goods. They had some very unique pieces! I made a mental note and headed back to Holy Moly to see if it might be open. Luckily, the stars aligned and it was! I loved everything about the vibe of Holy Moly. From the beautiful mural when you first arrived to the decor to the awesome wait staff, the vibe was dope. For lunch, Donnell ordered the Plant Based Cheeseburger, I ordered Plant Based BBQ Cheeseburger and we shared fries. We rated everything a 10. Everything. Donnell said it was easily in his top 3 of best vegan burgers. They were both delicious.
I was craving ice cream, so we decided to find the nearest heladería. We found the cutest place called Mo! It was busy and for good reason. There were so many options to choose from. I settled on dulce de leche, and it was easily a 10. You can never go wrong with that flavor.
It was almost time for our hot springs and Cajon del Maipo tour, so we made our way back to the meeting spot. We all briefly became acquainted and loaded up the trucks. I must say the ride to the Andes mountains felt a bit like a rollercoaster, and I’m glad I wasn’t in the front. If quick turns and bumpy roads make you nauseous or nervous, this might not be for you. We took a travel break at the House of Chocolate, a cute house where you can buy, you guessed it, chocolate! Once every stretched their legs and bought this chocolate, we got back on the road and headed to our first official stop, a beautiful yet unsuspecting waterfall referred to as Veil of the Bride. Though the waterfall was the highlight of the stop, this entire area was absolutely beautiful. I’ve never been a huge mountain person, but this was slowly changing my mind.
We left the waterfall and made our way to our main destination, a natural hot spring that consists of seven pools heated by the nearby volcano. They vary in temperature from 130 degrees at the top to 85 degrees at the bottom. I literally could’ve stayed here ALL day. It was so beautiful and peaceful. The view of the snowcapped mountains was absolutely magnificent.
After about an hour at the springs, we got dressed and headed to our Chilean BBQ. On the way, we stopped at yet another beautiful location to have the best view of the mountains.
Our Chilean BBQ was perfectly placed. The Andes mountains surrounded us, and there wasn’t a bad view in sight. As the sunset, we enjoyed Chilean wine, pisco and appetizers. As if we could eat any more, we still had dinner to come. Because this was a traditional bbq, we opted for a vegetarian meal. Donnell had a pesto pasta, and I had a mushroom risotto. They were both good and flavorful. Donnell rated his a 7, and mine was an 8.5.
As the sunset, there was still so much beauty in the darkness. The night sky was crystal clear, and we were able to see the stars and different constellations. It started to get late, so we packed up and headed back to Santiago. We had an amazing time and would highly suggest this tour. It was definitely a top travel moment for me in 2022.
Day 4 – Thursday, December 29
HIGHLIGHTS: La Beterraga Rebelde, Valparaiso Street Art and Verso Restaurante
Late nights led to late mornings on Thursday. We began our day late morning with a day trip to Valparaiso, a port city on the coast of Chile. Our ride to Valparaiso was a short two hours on a double-decker bus. It only cost us about $5 per person. Upon arrival, it was time for lunch, so I found a vegan spot La Beterraga Rebelde, a quaint spot that could be easily missed. Donnell had the Sailor Neptune, a vegan sandwich made with seitan, avocado, caramelized onions, red peppers and mayo. He rated it a 7 because he was expecting a different texture. I had the completos a s brasileno, a vegan hot dog made with seitan, cheese, avocado and mayo. While I was also expecting a different texture, I would rate mine an 8. It was different but good. For dessert, I ordered an alfajor, a dessert cookie popular in Latin America. I’ve had these before and would rate this one a 7 as I wasn’t expecting a peanut butter filling. Donnell LOVES peanut butter and rated it a 9.
After lunch, we set off to explore the city. My only plan was to wander the city, admire street art and see amazing views. That’s exactly what we were able to do. The streets are filled with beautiful unique street art. I’ve never seen anything like it. If visiting, I would strongly encourage you to wear good walking shoes as the city is hills on top of hills on top of hills. It reminded me of our walks around Lisbon.
For dinner, we had reservations at Verso Restaurant, a hotel restaurant with some absolutely beautiful views. We were there well before our reservation, but they let us sit on the patio until our reservation time. While we waited, I had a Valpo Sour which was absolutely delicious.
As the sun began to set, we moved inside for our meal. I ordered an elqui mule to start dinner. It was solid. We both had the Juan Fernández pandora, a pantherfish fillet from Juan Fernández Island with salmoriglio sauce, cauliflower textures, peas sautéed in mint and pulmay broth. We both rate it a 9. The fish was soooo fresh. The presentation was beautiful and the taste was delicious. For dessert, we shared a banana split ice cream bar, a palette of delicacy ice cream mousse and ripe banana with 70% chocolate coverage. I would rate it a 9 as well, but Donnell rated it a 10. He also LOVES bananas. We probably should’ve ordered two!
Our day ended with a two-hour ride back to Santiago. This time, it was only $4 per person. Overall, I’m glad we were able to visit Valporaiso. If I were to do it again, I would definitely secure a walking tour as it would give additional context to the street art. I would also venture outside of the city to the nearby beaches.
Day 5 – Friday, December 30
HIGHLIGHTS: Patio Bellavista, Peumayén Ancestral Food, Cerro San Cristóbal and Bocanáriz
On the morning of our last day in Santiago, we grabbed breakfast, checked out of the hotel and headed the Bella Vista neighborhood. Here we found Patio Bellavista, an outdoor retail space with shops and restaurants. We took our time to window shop, and then sat down for an Aperol Spritz. The weather was perfect, so it was a great way to pass the time.
Our lunch reservation was at Peumayen Ancestral Food, a restaurant inspired by native people. Their website states it is the “result of in-depth research on the gastronomic roots of Chile, embodied in a menu that combines original products, techniques and preparations from the main ancestral cultures of pre-Hispanic Chile.”
We opted for the sea tasting menu which consisted of about 20 tastings split between four courses. With each of the courses, we were encouraged to start from the south of the plate and head north as this represented the origin of the food within Chile. I love a good tasting menu, and this did not disappoint. We thoroughly enjoyed everything and rated it a 10. It was worth every penny.
To walk off our meal, we headed to Cerro Santa Cristobal. When we arrived, there was a wait, but it didn’t last long. To get to the top of the hill, took the funicular. I always enjoy those. At the top, we were able to take cable cars from one end of the park to the other. On the walk to catch them, Donnell spotted a heart-shaped bush, so we had to take a photo. The views of the city were beautiful. We didn’t have much time, so we weren’t able to explore, but this area certainly had a lot to offer.
We didn’t have much time left, but I knew I wanted to purchase a few items for the vendors we saw earlier in the week, so we made our way back and started to browse. Because we travel with our backpacks, we typically don’t have much space to bring items back. So, instead of a lot of souvenirs, I tend to bring back earrings because they’re practical and easy to pack. I was excited to find the ones I did, and I can’t wait to wear them!
For dinner, we headed across the street to Bocanariz, a popular wine bar. Being a wine bar, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to try a tasting flight. I had a bubbles flight and would rate it as a 7. We were still pretty full from lunch, so we opted for salads. Donnell had the vegan salad, and I had the pear and blue cheese salad. Both of our salads were large portions and very good. Donnell rated his a 9 and I would rate mine a 9.5.
We finished dinner and headed to the airport. This is where I would typically end our review, but I couldn’t miss the opportunity to share how amazing the LATAM lounge was at the airport. It was absolutely beautiful, spacious and clean. It was fully stocked with everything you could need. Lounges can be hit or miss, but we certainly could’ve eaten dinner here. They had some alfajores I would definitely rate a 10. Each bathroom stall had its own sink which I really appreciated. There was a gigantic bar in the middle of the lounge for cocktails, and there was also a self-service wine station. It was perfect. We were here for about an hour then back to the States we went.
Final Thoughts
Overall, we enjoyed our time in Santiago. Everyone we encountered was kind and helpful. The food was good, and the weather was exactly what we were looking for. While Donnell said it was a one-and-done city for him, I would certainly come back. Something about the Andes Mountains has my heart. Reflecting on our favorites, we both agreed that our favorite meal was Peumayan. Donnell’s favorite activity was the empanada-making class, and my favorite activity was the hot springs and cajon del maipo tour. It was definitely a great way to spend the last week of 2022. Stay tuned for our adventures in 2023!
