Around the World in Reality: South Africa

Our tour of five countries to celebrate five years of marriage continues with South Africa! We began talking about traveling to South Africa in 2019. Donnell always wanted to do a safari, and Cape Town was on my travel list. Fast forward to January 2022, we found a great deal and decided now was the time. My only regret is that we didn’t get there sooner.

Day 1 – Wednesday, June 29

HIGHLIGHTS: 54 on Bath and Level 4 Restaurant

Our adventure began on the afternoon of June 28 with a quick flight to Atlanta. We had a short layover, and then, we began boarding our direct flight to Johannesburg. The flight was 15.5 hours long, but it went by rather quickly. We arrived in Johannesburg right at sunset and what a beautiful one it was.

We only had our Osprey 40L backpacks as carryons for the trip, so we were able to leave the airport quickly and head to our hotel in Rosebank, a residential suburb in Johannesburg. We arrived at 54 on Bath, a beautiful hotel attached to the Rosebank Mall, and were welcomed with a drink and friendly service.

We freshened up and headed to dinner in the hotel at Level 4 Restaurant. Dinner began with two appetizers, the buffalo mozzarella and carrot ginger tart (pictured below). I really enjoyed the buffalo mozzarella, and Donnell took over the carrot ginger tart. For our main courses, we both had seabass, and it was very fresh and tasty. Before we finished off dinner with the vanilla pomegranate dessert, we experienced our first load-shedding outage. If you’re unfamiliar, load-shedding is rolling blackouts used to conserve energy. Luckily, it was short-lived because the hotel had a generator, but it was definitely an interesting start to the trip!

Day 2 – Thursday, June 30

HIGHLIGHTS: Apartheid Museum + Rosebank Arts and Craft Market + Cleavy’s + Nelson Mandela Square + Proud Mary

We began the day with a complimentary breakfast at Level 4. This was probably one of the best hotel breakfasts I’ve had. It included a buffet and an additional menu you could order from. Donnell ordered oatmeal, and I ordered avocado toast. To top it off, there was kombucha on the buffet. I was so excited to see that!

In our previous travels, we’ve learned to find a grocery store on the first day to stock up on fresh fruit and snacks. We headed to the mall where we found a Woolworth, a very nice supermarket that gave Target vibes. We grabbed our groceries and explored the mall for a bit before calling an Uber to head to the Apartheid Museum.

In doing my research, the Apartheid Museum consistently came up as a must-see. I was fortunate enough to win free tickets through a social media promotion, so there was no reason not to go. Upon arriving, we were assigned tickets that allowed us to enter either the non-white or white entrance. We had one of each, so Donnell took the non-white ticket, and I took the white ticket. Though these tickets were assigned at random, it still felt odd to enter through this entrance. As I type this, I’m still deciphering that moment. After a short walk, we were reunited and began to explore. The experience continued with a short video that shared the history of apartheid in South Africa. We only anticipated spending an hour or two in the museum but ended up spending over three hours there. It was such a powerful museum that left me overwhelmed with emotion. I couldn’t help but think about the many similarities between apartheid in South Africa and Jim Crow in the United States. Though it was very heavy, I’m so glad we went. It is necessary to continue to share accurate depictions of history, and I hope others will take the time to visit if they’re in Johannesburg.

For lunch, we headed to Cleavy’s Vegan & Vegetarian Eatery, a cute restaurant with a cafe feel about ten minutes from our hotel. I chose this restaurant because Donnell suggested finding at least one vegan or vegetarian restaurant while traveling. Considering we’re both pescatarians, I thought that made a lot of sense. Donnell had the Beeg Burger, and I had the Chick’ N Parmesan. Both were very generous portions and absolutely delicious. Warning: I’m going to say that A LOT!

Next, we went to the Rosebank Art and Craft Market, a place where artisans from all over Africa come to sell their goods. There were a ton of vendors here selling everything from jewelry to clothes to purses to shoes. After browsing around for a bit, we ended up buying two shirts for Donnell and two scarves for me. I wish we could’ve bought more, but we had to limit our purchases since we are #TeamCarryOn.

We left the market and caught the Gautrain to Sandton, another residential suburb of Johannesburg. I really love taking public transit when I can. It’s typically very easy to navigate if you do a little research ahead of time. In Sandton, we headed to Nelson Mandela Square to get a picture of his giant (and miniature) statue.

Dinner was at Proud Mary. This was a beautiful restaurant with a great vibe. I began dinner with Pierre Jourdan Belle Nectar, a delicious sparkling wine that was so good I had to bring it back home. For dinner, Donnell had the salmon, and I had the mushroom risotto. Let me start by sharing that I thought I hated all mushrooms. Then, I learned that wild mushrooms taste different, and I enjoyed those. In ordering this dish, I took a gamble that I would actually like it. Well, I LOVED it. I ate every single bit and wished there was more. Donnell’s salmon was good, too. I would highly recommend this restaurant!

Day 3 – Friday, July 1

HIGHLIGHT: Balanta Safari

We woke up before sunrise to head to Kruger National Park for a safari with Balanta Safari. The five-hour ride was smooth, and we arrived in time for a quick lunch with four other Americans who were on day two of their safari. Our first ride was led by William, an amazing man who has worked in the park for more than 43 years. During his tenure, he had the privilege to personally give Nelson Mandela a walking safari tour. It was clear William knew the ins and outs of the bush. In three short hours, we were able to see impala (the McDonald’s of the bush), warthogs, kudu, zebras, monkeys, elephants, hippos, wildebeest, giraffes, wild dogs and hyenas. It was simply amazing! It’s one thing to visit a zoo or watch animals on National Geographic, but it is another to actually experience an elephant walking in front of your vehicle or a zebra grazing beside you.

As the sun began to set, we headed to Nkambeni Tented Camp. Now, I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect from our accommodations, but I was pleasantly surprised by our tent which felt more like a cabin. We dropped our backpacks and headed to dinner where we enjoyed a buffet. Walking back from dinner, I was instantly drawn to the dark sky and bright stars. I’ve never seen so many stars in such a clear sky. It was mesmerizing.

Day 4 – Saturday, July 2

HIGHLIGHT: Balanta Safari

On Saturday, we woke up bright and early for an all-day drive. This drive was a bit slower than the previous day, but we were able to see more of the animals we saw on Friday along with a cheetah, rhinos, crocodiles and many beautiful birds. The cheetah was definitely the highlight of the day. She was such a beauty! It’s not common to see cheetahs regularly in Kruger as there are estimated to only be a couple hundred there. Our guide hadn’t seen one in two years, so it was a treat for all of us!

After the long day, we returned back to the camp to relax before dinner. Behind our camp, we could see hippos in the pond at sunset. It was truly a sight to see. We enjoyed this moment with Amurala, a delicious drink that comes from the Múrala tree. We ended the day with dinner outside under the stars.

Day 5 – Sunday, July 3

HIGHLIGHTS: Balanta Safari Tour + CB-One Cape Town + Mantra Cafe

On our last day of the safari, we were hopeful to see lions and leopards, two of the big five that we hadn’t seen. If you’re unaware, the big five are elephants, rhinos, African buffalo, lions and leopards. They’re called the big five because they were originally known as the five most difficult animals to hunt on foot. Our tour guide, Sebe, set out on a two-hour ride to help us round out the trip. It was no surprise that she knew all of the places to go as she had the opportunity to learn from William, our guide on Friday. In those two hours, we were able to see a pride of lions in the distance, a leopard in a tree and more. All in all, we were able to see the Magnificent Seven which are the Big Five plus cheetahs and wild dogs. Our trip was more than a success!

We headed to the KMI airport and hopped on a flight to Cape Town. We flew Airlink, a regional airline in Africa. It was such a great experience. For our 2.5-hour flight, we were served a small meal with complimentary wine. Such an accommodating airline!

We landed in Cape Town and headed to our hotel in Camps Bay. We stayed at CB-One, a beautiful property that gave picturesque views of the land and ocean. We arrived right in time for sunset, and I couldn’t take my eyes off it. These sunsets here are one of a kind!

For dinner, we headed down to Mantra Cafe. We began dinner with Fried Patagonian Calamari. For our main entrees, I had the Saldanha Mussels, and Donnell had Aubergine Parmigiana. Everything was great. We finished off the evening with Malva Pudding. Now, for Around the World in Quarantine Zamunda, I made malva pudding, and it was absolutely delicious. Ever since, I’ve been waiting to have this amazing dessert, and the authentic version did not disappoint!

Day 6 – Monday, July 4

HIGHLIGHTS: Ochre + Robben Island + Table Mountain + FYN

We woke up bright and early Monday morning to head to the V&A Waterfront. We arrived and stopped for breakfast at Ochre, a restaurant at the One&Only Hotel. Donnell had the Cape Spices Oats, I had the Salmon Poke Bowl, and we both shared pancakes. Everything was absolutely phenomenal! I would be remiss if I didn’t mention how lovely the hotel itself was. It will definitely be a strong contender for a future trip to Cape Town.

We made our way to catch the ferry to Robben Island. While waiting in line, we were able to learn more about the history of Robben Island which was very interesting to me. After a quick 20-minute ride, we arrived on the island and headed to a bus for the first part of the tour. Our tour guide explained the history of the island as we stopped at multiple sights along the way. The tour continued with a former political prisoner, Thulani Mabaso, giving us a tour inside the actual prison. Hearing his personal story evoked many of the same emotions I felt at the Apartheid Museum. The tour ended with us viewing the cell where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned. I can’t put into words what this experience meant to me, but it was extremely moving and powerful to have the opportunity to experience it.

We headed back to the V&A Waterfront and caught an Uber to Table Mountain. To get to the top, there is a short tram that is not for the faint of heart. If you’re scared of heights, this one might not be for you. However, when we made it to the top, the views were absolutely worth the ride. We grabbed lunch and walked around the top of the mountain soaking in the stunning views. Table Mountain is now considered one of the 7 wondersof nature, and I could easily see why.

After another long day, we came back to the hotel to catch the sunset. Dinner was at FYN, a fine dining restaurant nestled on the fifth floor of a multi-use building. When booked this reservation, I opted for the elevated chefs seats. This ended up being a great choice as we were able to watch the magic happen behind the scenes. I would highly recommend this view. We both opted for the 8-course experience menu, and it was amazing. The experience took three hours to complete, but we were captivated the entire time. And I’m not surprised because it was recommended by Chef Ariel from the amazing A to Z Experience in Panamá!

Day 7 – Tuesday, July 6

HIGHLIGHTS: Hop On/Off Bus + V&A Waterfront + Canal Tour + Belly of the Beast + Beau Constantia

On Tuesday morning, we caught the Hop On/Off Bus and rode back down to V&A Waterfront. Along the way, we cruised along the coast and learned more about the history of Cape Town. At the waterfront, we headed to the V&A Food Hall and grabbed tramezzini from Turkish Delights. Though not breakfast food, it was very hearty and delicious. We browsed the Watershed for souvenirs, but I had to AGAIN remind myself that we only brought backpacks. We made our way back to the One&Only Hotel to catch a canal cruise. This cruise was included with the Hop On/Off Bus admission and was a fun way to see the city from a different view. We hopped off at the CTICC and headed toward the business district for lunch.

Lunch was at Belly of the Beast, a quaint 20-seater restaurant that offers a tasting menu daily. This restaurant had great reviews, so we had to try it out. It was also intriguing because on their website it states “There are no menu options or set amount of courses. All you do is show up and trust us to satisfy with our seasonal fare.” For this meal, we had four dishes along with dessert. I forgot to take a photo of the handwritten menu upon entry to share what everything is, but nonetheless, it all was delicious. The amazing meal and the intimate nature of the restaurant was a whole vibe.

After lunch, we caught the Hop On/Off Bus to the Constantia wine region. Along the way, we were able to ride by three additional wine farms in the region. If we had more time, we would’ve tried them all.

We had a wine tasting scheduled for Beau Constantia, a boutique wine farm situated at the top of Constantia Nek overlooking False Bay. We had two hours before dinner, so we were able to relax and enjoy the beautiful views of the vineyard. For the tasting, we chose the mixed tasting which included two whites, Pass de Nom MCC and Creative Batch 2021, and two reds, Lucca 2018 and Aidan 2017. I personally enjoyed Lucca 2018 and Aidan 2017. Donnell was just along for the ride as he isn’t the biggest fan of wine.

For dinner, we went downstairs to the Chef’s Warehouse. There are numerous locations in Cape Town, but I opted for this one for convenience. According to their website, “the classic Chefs Warehouse tapas-style set menu celebrates quality seasonal ingredients and South East Asian flavours. Much of the produce is grown locally or on the beautiful Beau Constantia farm, which is then incorporated by a gifted kitchen team into an ever-changing menu that celebrates the simple pleasure of eating and drinking well in a superb setting.” It was certainly all of that and more. We began dinner with Oyster Beau Constantia. I loved them, but Donnell was not a fan. He did try one though. For dinner, we opted for their tapas for two which consisted of eight dishes served two at a time. Every single dish was unique, delicious and beautifully plated. We would both highly recommend an afternoon or evening at Beau Constantia for both the wine tasting and dinner.

Day 8 – Wednesday, July 7

HIGHLIGHTS: Jewelry Making Class + Kloof Street House

Our last day in Cape Town began with a jewelry-making workshop with Thandie. This experience was interesting to me because it felt like an intersection of my personal and professional life. We spent over an hour making jewelry with a beautiful South African textile called shweshwe. The workshop was great, and we loved being able to bring home the jewelry we made!

We headed next door to grab lunch at Kloof Street House, a beautifully decorated restaurant with a vintage feel. Our last meal in Cape Town consisted of salmon for me and a veggie burger for Donnell. Both meals were very flavorful and delicious. Knowing it might be some time before I came back to South Africa, I couldn’t leave without having Malva pudding one more time. Though it wasn’t as good as Mantra Cafe’s malva pudding, it was very tasty. From there, we flew back to Joburg to catch our flight to the States. 

Final Thoughts

Our trip to South Africa was nothing short of amazing. We thoroughly enjoyed every single place we went. Of all of our international travels thus far, I would put it at the top of the list, slightly ahead of Barcelona. It’s hard to have a favorite activity because they were all amazing, but we fell in love with the safari. There is nothing like being in the bush! We definitely want to add safaris into our regular travel rotation. My favorite restaurant was Proud Mary because I’m still thinking about the mushroom risotto as I type, and Donnell’s favorite was Fyn because of the food and experience.

During our time in Africa, we had many South Africans tell us “Welcome home”. I get a little emotional typing those words as they were very powerful to me. Everyone was so welcoming and accommodating. It felt good to feel that love, and we can’t wait to come back to that feeling.

Four down. One to go!